Licorice: A Plant Biomodulator for Sensitive, Inflammatory and Blemish-Prone Skin

A major medicinal plant in traditional Asian and Mediterranean pharmacopoeias, licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) is now fully integrated into modern cosmetic strategies for its richness in active principles that are simultaneously soothing, anti-inflammatory, protective and anti-blemish.

Licorice root contains a series of bioactive compounds of dermatological interest. Glycyrrhizin, a triterpene saponoside, is probably the most documented. It presents marked anti-inflammatory activity, comparable to that of mild corticosteroids, but without their associated side effects. It acts by inhibiting expression of key inflammatory enzymes like COX-2 and 5-lipoxygenase, as well as production of cytokines such as TNF-α and IL-6.

But licorice is not limited to anti-inflammatory effects. It is also known for its ability to reduce hyperpigmentation. This brightening power is essentially due to glabridin, an isoflavone naturally present in the root. Unlike other more aggressive depigmenting agents, glabridin does not inhibit cell proliferation but acts specifically on the tyrosinase enzyme, reducing melanin synthesis at the source without disturbing other cellular functions.

Licorice also contains flavonoids and phenolic acids that complement its antioxidant activity. These compounds neutralize reactive oxygen species and protect dermal structures such as collagen and cell membranes, thus contributing to delaying the effects of cutaneous aging induced by environmental factors.

When integrated into advanced cosmetic technologies, such as those developed in Selkeys® SPCG® formulas, licorice expresses all its versatility. Thanks to gentle vectorization, optimized stratum corneum permeability and synergy with other physio-mimetic actives, it can reach deep epidermal layers where it effectively acts on keratinocytes and melanocytes.